Collections

Armor of Aqua continues this exploration through tailoring, bustiers and dresses. Shaped panels, seam construction and selective support work with each fabric to define the silhouette and preserve movement.

Armor of Aqua takes water as its image - seemingly soft, yet able to reshape a landscape by never stopping. The collection is about the quiet, certain strength of women today: you need not prove yourself by being hard to draw a clear edge and hold it.

The looks run from day dresses to evening gowns, the colour moving from the brightness of white gold, through the stillness of deep blue, to the softness and resolve of violet.

The first waking of a woman's strength. White, champagne and gold rise like early light on someone just coming to know herself - light, finely made day dresses carrying a pure and unhurried vitality.

That strength settling. Deep blue runs like an undertow beneath still water, restrained and certain; the looks move from day into evening, holding their composure between softness and structure.

Arrival at ease and freedom. Blue-violet and grey-violet fold water light into night, and loose, flowing evening gowns close the collection. Here softness is no longer fragility to be protected, but the steadiest armour she wears to face the world.

The collection brings together fabrics from several regions: silk from China - organza, gambiered gauze, pearl satin and crepe de chine, with mulberry silk throughout the linings; tweed, jacquard and lace from Europe; new technical fabrics from Japan. The patterns are built on Western three-dimensional cutting, opening into stand collars, mandarin collars, qipao-cut shoulders and a woman's tailcoat.

Where the cloth is heavy, technique and structure make it light; where it is fine, pattern and construction give it fall and hold. Double-faced seaming, unlined work, hand-set beading, French embroidery, cutwork and boned structure let structure hide inside softness and strength move with the cloth.

None of this can be hurried. A single piece passes through dozens of operations between the final pattern and the finished garment; on the longest of them, the handwork alone ran past one hundred hours.

Fifteen looks explore how pattern and handwork bring defined silhouettes, comfort and personal expression to everyday, festive and evening dressing.

Soft structure for women’s formalwear begins with the wearer: client fittings guide sleeve construction; light and shadow guide bow beading; detachable embroidered cuffs respond to use and care.